One evening, when looking for information on the Internet, I come across a blog of a pair of gringos and their adventures with the cactus. I’m enchanted by the black-and-white photos and the story of a trip that took place in Hatun Machay. Not taking too much time to wonder, I write an e-mail to the owner of the only hostel in the area and ask about the possibility to visit. We exchange a few messages and within a few days we land at the spot.
In the afternoon we reconnaissance the area. This land is owned for centuries by three families. Some members still live there, in very primitive conditions, in shelters built from whatever was at hand – stones and straw.
“Drink this medicine and go talk to the rocks” – Miguel, a young archaeologist from Lima and the chef of our magic soup, who also takes care of the hostel explains to us what is his approche and philosophy in a clear and concise manner.
So we drink and go. The first two hours are an agony for the stomach, the pressure jumps, once it’s hot and one it’s cold. The grandfather shows his strength. My friend vomits, I don’t. Later, after many sessions together, it turns out that this scenario repeats itself each and every time.
Mountain forming processes, effects of rain, snow, cold, sun, and wind, erosion, living creatures, mosses, lichens, bacteria, and the whole reality which surrounds me goes through my mind at a great speed. I become aware of the cycles of nature. Everything begins to breathe, I become more open and so do the rocks. Everything flows, the world and my psyche, so fragile so unreliable.
Where is up and where is down? Who would even care? I feel a growing happiness and the incredibility of the day. The landscape changes with each step, blows away the clouds and then summons them back, it becomes super dark like in Beksiński’s paintings, and in just a moment the sun comes. We absorb it. It has already destroyed us completely. There were tears. We were once again like children in a sandbox.
On that day I have discovered that nature is a temple in which the magic happens. The grandfather gave a lot of power, warmth, support, and happiness. Dear. This was the first time he really showed what he’s capable of. As it turned out, this was a brilliant spot to start the adventure with the San Pedro cactus.
On the next day, Miguel invites us for a traditional Pachamanca dish. But first, it has to be caught.